FAQ

No, but I’m seriously thinking about it. Get in touch before I change my mind!

Yes, I’m happy recommend some people I work with regularly.

Firstly, we’ll see what positions, if any, need to be moved at the design stage. You are then welcome to use my drawings (which will indicate the new layout of appliances, electrical connections etc.) to obtain quotes from the trades. Once the site is clear enough, i.e. anything in the way has been stripped out, then the plumber and/or electrician will come and do the ‘first fix’. This means the plumber will move the hot/cold/waste pipes as required, and the electrician will put the new connections in, chase any new cable runs etc, and typically leave the new electrical positions with the tails coming out of the back boxes. The electricians can sometimes fill their chases where necessary if it will be a visible area.

Then I install the cabinetry. I bring the tails into the cabinets where necessary (making cut outs for the back boxes if to be recessed), and make penetrations under the sink for the plumbing and drill the tap hole in the worktop.

Then they come back for ‘second fix’. The electrician sorts out the sockets, switches, appliance connections, isolators for the appliances, and lighting including LED strips. The plumber connects up the sink, tap, dishwasher, washing mahine etc.

Although I offer new fronts for existing kitchen units in the spirit of reduce-reuse-recycle and the ‘circular economy‘, I’m not really in the business of supplying after market accessories for other manufacturer’s chipboard units. If you’re determined to go down that route there are specialist companies who are, such as plykea.

Since 2018.

I came at it from an architecture background. After working in architectural practices for a while, I decided I wanted to get more hands on with the making process. So I then took a job as the in house designer at a joinery firm in London. Eventually, after moving to Frome it made sense to do the making too, and I very much enjoy that side of things!

Yes, I can arrange to do this. It is good to coordinate with other trades to minimise downtime without a functioning room.

Before if possible, but if it really causes a problem with timings then after is also possible. The toe kicks can be removed to allow flooring installation. By the way, I’ve always had a a good experience with Allsops.

Yes, please have a look at the materials section and get in touch to let me know what you’re interested in.

If not painted, my go to finish is Osmo hardwax oil from either their wood wax range, polyx-oil raw or their food safe top oil.

• Very durable and hardwearing – water and dirt resistant including common liquid spillages such as juice, tea, cola and wine
• Versatile range of tints
• Wood grain remains visible with transparent tones or can be hidden with intensive tones
• Microporous, breathable finish which does not crack, peel or flake
• No sanding necessary for spot repairs or future applications

Osmo provide a range of tinted oils which can control the hue as desired.